Two opposing models for building value in contemporary perfumery
Every perfumery project stems from an initial decision, often implicit and rarely stated:
what do we start from?
Dalla produzione o dal brand? Dal prodotto o dal significato?
This initial choice determines the entire development of the project, much more than one is led to believe.
Over time, two opposing models have become established:
factory-first e brand-first. Non sono filosofie astratte. Sono sistemi decisionali con conseguenze molto concrete.
The factory-first model: efficiency as a starting point
In the factory-first model, design comes from production.
It starts with what is available:
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standard components
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already industrialized formats
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optimized processes
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costs under control
The brand is built around to these constraints.
Questo approccio ha una sua logica. È efficiente. Riduce il rischio operativo iniziale. Permette di entrare rapidamente sul mercato.
And that is why it is still widespread. The problem emerges in the medium term.
The structural limitations of factory-first
When branding arises as a consequence of production:
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the price is adjusted to the cost
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design bends to constraints
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positioning remains vague
The result is a correct but fragile product.
Fragile because:
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easily replicable
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difficult to defend on price
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hardly recognizable over time
Nel factory-first, la qualità è spesso alta. Ma la differenza percepita è bassa. E in un mercato dove la qualità è ormai una soglia di ingresso, questo diventa un problema serio.
The brand-first model: meaning as a guide
In the brand-first model, the sequence reverses.
It starts with different questions:
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What should this brand represent?
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Who does it really address?
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What price must it credibly bear?
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What kind of experience should he build over time?
Solo dopo aver chiarito questi elementi si entra nella produzione. La produzione non scompare. Semplicemente, cambia ruolo. Da vincolo diventa lever.
Why brand-first is no less efficient
One of the most common misconceptions is that brand-first is:
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more expensive
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slower
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less industrial
In reality, in the medium to long term, the opposite happens.
A brand-first project:
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reduces revisions
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avoids costly second thoughts
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builds consistency
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Makes choices more defensible
Efficiency is not eliminated. It is displaced upstream, in the decision-making process.
Efficiency versus value
Il factory-first ottimizza l’efficienza immediata. Il brand-first costruisce valore nel tempo.
L’efficienza è copiabile. Il valore no. Ed è qui che si crea la vera differenza competitiva.
Conclusion
In today's market, starting with production means chasing. Starting with the brand means leading.
Il factory-first crea prodotti. Il brand-first costruisce sistemi.
And in the long run, it is the systems that survive.
